The tricks of the trade are concepts that all professionals know despite the fact that every one of them has slightly varying preferences and methods for doing things. The essence is to get consistent results even if the journey takes a variety of routes, right?
Before you start
Starting with a perfectly smooth surface ensures the woodwork and walls are perfectly painted. You will have to sand away any flaws so the sandpaper is most likely the first thing you will be pushing instead of a paint brush. Any joint-compound patches and speckles need to be sanded out. The ridges around nail holes have to be flattened.
Any burrs and rough spots in the trim will be removed as well. Use fine-grit sanding paper on a sanding pole to sand the walls from the baseboard to the ceiling. Along the baseboard and ceiling, sand horizontally afterward.
Any holes are filled and any cracks are patched using joint compound. Simply painting over those sucks the moisture from the paint and delivers a flat, dull look.or ‘flashing’. This results in a noticeably variable look compared to the rest of the wall. Priming handles that issue beforehand. White primer is less suitable compared to tinted gray or a color that approximates the finish paint.
Prior to starting to paint, do a thorough job of sticking the tape completely by running a putty knife over the top to press the tape down and achieve a good seal. Blue painter’s tape is better than masking tape, which tends to leave behind a sticky, hard-to-clean residue.
Thin bed sheets won’t keep spills and splatters from seeping through the flooring like canvas drop cloths can, just a few feet wide and running along the length of the wall. In addition, canvas drop cloths are also not slippery and can absorb splatters. The small canvas drop cloth protects the floor and is also easier to move. That said, large spills have to be wiped up immediately to prevent them from bleeding through.
To obtain a seamless look, finish one wall before starting on another to allow the better blending of the brushed and the rolled paint.
To keep the tools and paint from drying out when not in use, cover the tray, paint bucket, and container with a damp towel when transitioning between brushing and rolling.
Since paint typically ends up on the glass anyway, it’s pretty useless, not to mention time-consuming, to have to tape the windows prior to sash painting. Simply scrape off any dried-up paint on the windows using a razor blade to peel the unwanted element in seconds. Be careful not to break the paint bond between the glass and the wood, as moisture can get into the wood and cause rotting.
Although you select the same hue, the color can surprisingly vary between cans. For color consistency throughout the painting job, mix the cans of same-color paint in a five-gallon bucket, which is a process called ‘boxing’. You can paint directly from the bucket so you wouldn’t need to dispense paint frequently into a roller tray.
Proper painting technique
Use a load-and-go painting technique. This involves loading the lower 1.5 inches of the brush with paint, tapping each side against the internal surface of the container to handle the heavy drips, and commencing the painting. This produces better results compared to the typical load-and-dump technique that non-pros use, which involves dragging the loaded brush along the container sides to wipe off most of the paint. The latter is pointless and prolongs the job than it should be.
Avoid runs by pushing paint instead of applying an excessive amount along the trim or in the corners when there’s a load of the coloring material on the brush. To achieve a better result, commence brushing around half an inch from the cut-in area to apply paint. Move over and drag the brush slowly along the corner or trim as the tool unloads.
Allow the paint to be pushed gently by the bristles against the cut-in area on the exact point where the walls meet. To obtain complete coverage, you may need to do that a couple of times but at least it prevents excess paint from getting into the corners and woodwork.